Torcross

The memorial that stands near the slapton sands was erected by the Americans to the people of the South Hams area to thank them for their help during the second world war in which all the areas along the coast were evacuated and used by allied troops in preparation for the D-Day Landings of 1944.








Torcross itself was a new village back in 1602, but little is known about its past, except that it may have been an old fishing village.

In late 1943 Torcross was evacuated, like so many other villages including Slapton Sands all along the South Hams area, to make way for allied troops who needed the area to practice for the D-Day Landings.

However, on the 28th April 1944, in the early hours, during Exercise Tiger, nine german u-boats armed with torpedos, intercepted a 3 mile long convoy of vessels taking part in the exercise.
Two tank landing ships were sunk and 749 American Servicemen lost their lives.

Several decades on the locals of Torcross fought for a memorial and after alot of baggering and raising of funds the wrecks were found and a sherman tank bought ashore.

The story goes that sherman tank still worked although waterlogged and at the bottom of the sea for nearly 45 years, its tracks rolled out like it had just come from the factory, a lasting defiance of time not forgotten.

It now stands proudly as the memorial to all 749 servicemen killed here and a disaster no-one wanted forgotten

Slapton to Start Point

From Slapton we headed along the shingle beach, glorious sunshine again joining the journey.
We went through Torcross and onto Beesands which had both survived disasters that had overtook their neighbouring Hallsands.
Again views were breathtaking and we walked some memorable hedge coverings, which had their own unique designs trees that were in full abundance of fruit, indeed the plums were exceptional!

Steps that seem to be here, there and everywhere and long velvet green grass on cliff edges, not out of place and growing very well!

The trees and hedges that have been shaped by man but here long before....

Above left are the remains of Hallsands which in January 1917 an abnormally high tide coincided with an easterly gale. Villagers watched from the hilltops and cliffs as all but one of 30 cottages were destroyed by the storm.

It was said that the removal of tons of shingle were taken to make concrete and this subsequently weakened the natural defences of Hallsands, although this was denied but the villagers were rehoused in North Hallsands around 1920.
Above right is the lighthouse at Start Point.

Below left, a lovely view!

Finally a hot dog taking a cooling off in the sea! Willow enjoys her daily swims!

In all, the journey took us majority of the day, but we arrived back in good time for the fish and chip wagon that arrived every Tuesday evening!

Dartmouth to Slapton Sands via Stoke Fleming

From Dartmouth on another day, which was wet to start, but walking on and passing Dartmouth Castle with all its high walls and old exteriooar.
The coastal path here was as rugged and hilly as any other part of the walk and on several occasions I couldn`t get up some of the steps without crawling on my hands and knees!
The weight of my pack quite literally weighing me down.
Eventually arriving on the top of a big hill, it panned out and carried on weaving its way round the coast.
With pouring rain, we carried on and after about 6 mile we reached a place called Stoke Fleming and a lovely little camp site nearby of which we decided to stay.
After a couple of nights here I was told about another place which was only another 8 mile away and that was Slapton Sands, a camping and caravanning site.
We did indeed carry onto Slapton Sands and a lovely stretch of flat route, the best I found and arrived at our destination in good time.

Slapton Sands was exactly as it had been described to me, flat with shingle beaches and a nature reserve to fulfill the dream.
The old town with its 500 year old church and its old tower looming above, thatched cottages and old world public houses, it was perfectly kept and you felt like you had once more stepped back in time.

I decided that we would use Slapton Sands as a base and travel to other areas without having to haul a big heavy rucksack around.

Paignton to Dartmouth Via Kingswear

After a couple of days rest, it was time to say goodbye to the hotel staff and holidaymakers and put the rucksack with new tent on my back and off on a journey that would be one of our toughest.

The weather would also prove a factor - yet again.

The blue skies had since disappeared and were replaced by now dark clouds and light rain, but it soon turned into a downpour as we headed towards Brixham.Soaking wet and no one about I was somewhat bemused when walking along the coastal path, we passed a coastguard station, when a bearded chap asked if the dog was mine, she was I replied, can I put her on a lead? I couldn`t understand why, I know if the sun was out and loads of people were about, that was different, but in pouring rain, no-one about apart from him supping a cup of tea in his dry office. I duly obliged then after 100metres let her off again, I think she was more bemused than me and obviously the chap wanted to feel he had authority and I had to bolster his ego.

The weather was so bad though, that I ended up having to camp at Churston for the night until the bad weather abated.

All night it lashed it down, but we were warm and dry and by morning, the seemingly relentless downpour had disappeared and replaced by warm sunshine. Only the puddle outside the tent a clue to what weather we had had.

We retraced our steps back to where we left and headed uphill to Brixham, its Old buildings running steeply down the hill to the harbour.

Brixham has been prominent since the Middle Ages, with it being a major fishing port for about 300 years.

Don`t be surprised if you see a full sized replica of the Golden Hinde, it is here!

William of Orange also landed here.

Passing through Brixham and onto Berry Head which has huge fortifications that were built when Britain was at war with France.

The lighthouse here is said to be the highest and lowest in Britain. It is only 15ft tall, but the light is 200ft above sea level. From here follow the route passed St. Mary`s Bay and Man Sands, but this section of the coast is very rugged with steep uphills and jutting coastal line, that when you step down to Kingswear, you are grateful of a rest.You also pass some stunning scenery on the way down and some signposts that remind you that creatures lurk in unsuspecting walkways!

There are also weird and wonderful styles to climb over!

Then the ever popular painted lady was everywhere!

She looked exquisite, just sitting there letting the sun warm her wings.

She did not fly of and was not disturbed by our presence.

She is not local, but has travelled from afar,

She is the painted lady.

Once at Kingswear, we found a good campsite and settled for the night.

The next day I decided that we would take a trip on esteemed steam train and watched the last boat ferry to make its journey from here to Dartmouth, a sad occassion.

The end of an era....

Kingswear proved a delightful place to visit and our visit did not end there, we went to Greenway House, where Agatha Christie used it as a holiday home.

During the second world war, the Americans moved in and panelled the rooms of to preserve its history, but the walls were painted with stories from the war and aafter the war the Americans restored it back to before they moved in.

The buildingwas the birthplace of Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who claimed Newfoundland for Queen Elizabeth in 1539.

Dogs are not permitted in the house, but they can be tethered at thegarden wall where water is provided and those with dogs that howl (Willow!) a good fuss and cuddle is provided at no extra cost!

Enjoy a good walk around the grounds, all in all, we spent 5 hours here, an hour and a half in the house alone, but it is well worth a visit.

The next day it was time to leave Kingswear and cross on the ferry to Dartmouth, where we would again pick up the signs and continue along the South West Coast Path.

In Dartmouth itself signs are everywhere telling you about its history from the castle to important people and what was done in Dartmouth.

The Hotel and Lyme Regis

We arrived at the marine hotel in the afternoon, again back to glorious sunshine.

The hotel itself was very busy with holiday makers and I felt a little out of place in gear that needed a good wash and looking desperately like a well seasoned walker!

No one minded though, Willow was centre of attention and a good icebreaker!

After hearing that we were walking for Macmillan Cancer Support, the hotel were excellent and even helped by providing meals for us and several nights free accommodation, proof of our journey was needed by providing the justgiving.com website and the website I had at the time recalling our journey.

I couldn`t have asked for more they were very helpful throughout and even the coach party had gotten used to us by the second morning, that when I didn`t turn up for breakfast a couple of the party became concerned, but no need to worry we had to start the walks early to allow for transport etc.

With the comfort and luxury that would have for the next 9 days, we were spoilt!

Paignton itself was once a fishing village until the 19th century. Isaac Singer, the sewing machine millionaire resided here and built Oldway Mansion in 1854.

The beach is of reddish sand - different to that at Weymouth and Bridport which was pale in comparison.

Paignton beach is also a safe beach and a safe area for youngsters to go and swim.

Every Wednesday near the Paignton Pier, hundreds of motorbikers descend and park up and people look at the different types of bikes, but not only that the bikers raise thousands of pounds every week for different local charities by doing this.

Walking around Paignton, I couldn`t remember it from when I was here with the family, I simply couldn`t recall it, though I knew I had been here.

After finding a launderette and dumping clothes that could have walked themselves here, we continued to the town centre bustling with people buying rock or suncream, me, I bought postcards, something that I promised friends and family that wherever we went, we had to buy a postcard and send it to them so they could pin it on a map and keep track of our travels! Well it worked!

I also found out there was a terminus here for the Dart Valley Railway Company`s Torbay and Dartmouth Line and there was a lovely old steam train. I love the old steam train, not like todays get in and squashed with no room to put your luggage and but they expect you to pay a fortune for the privilege!

No, these are trains of a bygone era and I love travelling on them, even Willow, she seems more excited on these than the modern diesel! was she a train conductor in a past life? or an engineer? or even the driver? Hmmmmmm.....!

With clean clothes and a well deserved rest, we headed for the train station and onto Axminster, where we would get the bus all the way back to Bridport and continue on our journey.

We left at 6am.

Arriving at West Bay and with better weather, I could finally see what the Harbour looked like.

Alot of naval vessels used to be built here until 1879, indeed up to 500 ships a year visited here.

The journey from West Bay , as always started with a steep incline, I had always wondered if this who had built mountains at the coast! The height of some of these cliffs is astounding and certainly got me out of breath more than once to climb them!

Alot of the south west coast path is eroding but it makes a wonderful journey and you can see why it is called the Jurassic coastline with the red of the sand and the jutting of cliff tops and then the smoothness of rounded corners and on some of them you can see where the tide once was, the different colours and shingles intermingled with an old floor line.

Once over the top we headed west towards the Eype Mouth which has smooth, steeply shelving shingle at the the foot of unstable cliffs, but the views are staggering and on a day like today with clear skies and bright sunshine, miles can be seen.

We continued on, passing Seatown, which was once favourite with smugglers landing contraband here when smuggling was rife in Dorset. It was also the flattest part of this route! Once again we would be heading up steep inclines and then eventually onto Golden Cap, which has clumps of bright yellow gorse and golden sandstone near its summit, hence the name. It is also the highest cliff in southern England at 626ft.

At the stone carving, just behind it is another fossil (not me!) another ammonite exposed.

Along the route, beacons could be found, these go quite a way and in the olden days they would be lit either as a warning or as a beacon of light.

The journey from Golden Cap took us downwards towards Charmouth, but with only 200metres to go, a huge landslip had meant the journey would go around a different route for approximately a mile and half before you rejoined the South West Coast Path.

Charmouth itself was once refuge to Charles II who was fleeing from Cromwell.

His defeat in 1651 at Worcester drove him here to the Queen`s Arms Inn, but it didn`t last as word of his presence leaked out, he had to flea on horseback.

After passing the outskirts of Charmouth, Lyme Regis was only a couple of mile away, but again the route was hilly though enjoyable and Lyme Regis itself is on a steep incline.

Like the rest of the coast its past is colourful.

Its roots go back to AD774 when the King of the west saxons gave monks permission to produce salt from the seawater.

"Regis" came in the 13th century when a town charter was granted and used the port as a base for wars against the french.

The Duke of Monmouth once landed here, wanting to take the throne from his uncle, James II but the men were defeated and were hanged.

Lyme Regis also had a starring role in the film The French Lieutenant`s Woman.

Lyme Regis is now a quiet harbour and brimming with holiday makers enjoying the warmth of an early British summer!

We waited for a bus, not long, and then back to Axminster for the train back to Paignton and the hotel.

The weather and Bridport

Our trip so far had been met with glorious sunshine but this particular morning we were greeted with torrential rain and a gale force wind.
Wondering what to do, I decided a bus would be the order of the day and take us to Bridport which is where we would stay.
On the trusted bus we went and 45 minutes later through fogged up windows we arrived.
Bridport was an open exposed harbour and we were bitterly cold!
With the dog not impressed it was onto the campsite where i became less impressed.
"how long are you staying?" The helper behind the desk enquired. "2 nights " came my reply,
"thats £56 please...." with a drop of my jaw and a hesitant hand, I took out £30 and said could i pay the rest later? No problem and off we trotted.
Was this site gilted in gold? or national treasures around and untold?
No, but i made a mistake it was a holiday park and no ordinary campsite!
Putting up the tent was a nightmare as we were buffetted this way and that, but i managed to put it up in record time!
Then it was onward and upward into Bridport itself and I was pleasantly surprised by its old market town appearance and friendly people, just a pity it was a miserable day!
We made our way checking out the various shops before finding a pub that would take me and the dog and we found a good place to go and eat, indeed they made us feel very welcome that i can`t remember leaving!
Getting back to the tent was the one though as the poles had been buckled and snapped through the canvas to leave a gaping hole!
Not impressed but i couldn`t do anything tonight apart from cover it with a ground sheet that i had bought as a temporary shelter if it was needed - it was.
Next morning the damage was reviewed and no chance of salvage, but at least it was dry and the sun was beginning to lift its head through murky clouds - its going to be a nice day I said to Willow, she just wagged her tail and rolled around in the grass!
Without a tent I had to get a new one and continue on our journey, but not finding one suitable for our needs I checked my dogs welcome pack to check out hotels and that would help us out.
I found one, though it was further than what i wanted, but with good bus routes, the decision was made and so off we went on the bus (after notifying the holiday park that we would not be staying and getting £2 refund!) and onto paignton we went.

Honey with everything!

One of the most natural and useful of foods that can help boost your immune system and is a helpful first aid tonic delivered by the friendly bumble bees is honey.
Often overlooked but I have found it to add a great touch to certain foods, here are just a couple of tasters and remember I am cooking on a camping stove and not with ovens!

Glazed Honey Chicken with sauteed potatoes and Green Beans

2 pieces of chicken (preferably whole breast as you can slice this)
1 large potato (obviously i`m cooking for 1 person so you`ll need more if there`s 2 or more of you!) peeled and diced
A dozen green beans (or vegetables you like!)
A squeezy bottle of Honey (jars are heavier!) any sort will do, honey is good for you so enjoy trying the different types from Britain, New Zealand, Spain etc......

Gently fry the chicken (preferably whole chicken breast, but you can slice up if preferred) in olive oil or similar for about 10 minutes or until meat is tender.

Remember cooking on a camping gaz stove will take a little longer and food poisoning is not recommended!

Remove from heat
With a squeezy bottle of honey (jars are usually heavier!) smother the chicken with a coating of the honey and set aside.
With the potatoes, slice and dice into approximate square shapes and place in frying pan with juices of meat for approximately 10 minutes then remove and set aside.
Being sauteed potatoes, these will take less time to cook and soften quicker, you want them golden in colour not cremated as I did on my first attempt!
The chicken will have had a little time to marinade and now place back in the frying pan for approximately 5 minutes, turning regularly and then add the potatoes and the beans and because they are vegetables, they will not need much cooking so 5 minutes should be long enough and then serve.
Add a little butter (if you have any in your rucksack) or with the melted honey in the pan pour over the beans and you have a lovely glaze and enjoy - me and Willow did!

If you have a cold........

Why not try a teaspoon of honey with the juice of 1 lemon and a teaspoonful of sugar in hot water (not boiling). It makes a lovely drink and soothes your cough and cold.